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When assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.